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General Preventative Maintenance
Semi-annual inspections (preferably one in the spring and one in the fall) is recommended to identify and solve problems as they occur. Roofs get more abuse from the elements than any other part of the building. Preventative maintenance is a key element to saving money and to extending the roof life. This section will provide some general guidelines on how to maintain your roof and on how to attain maximum performance from the roofing system.
Provide Proper Drainage
Keep the roof surface (including gutters and down spouts) clean of leaves, twigs, paper or accumulated dirt at drain areas to avoid clogging. Ponding of water on the surface of the system will increase the probability of moist ure entering the structure in the event of a puncture or cut in the roofing system.
Avoid Degrading the Roofing System
To avoid degradation do not expose the roofing system to the following:
• Liquids containing petroleum products
• Solvents
• Grease used for lubricating roof top units
• Oils (new or old) used for air conditioning or compressor units
• Kitchen waste or other animal fats
• Chemicals
Limit Foot Traffic
Unprotected areas of the roofing system are more susceptible to damage from recurring foot traffic.
Exercise care with Tools and Equipment
Use caution when using tools and equipment on the roof to avoid unnecessary punctures.
Exercise care with Snow Removal
Use caution when removing snow from the rooftop, again, to avoid unnecessary punctures.
Remove Debris & Spillage
Remove all debris (glass, bolts, nails, screws, metal shavings etc.) that may promote punctures. Clean up all spillage of material that may degrade the system.
Contact Wendell's Roofing and Remodeling for your best solution.
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Periodic Inspections
Periodic inspections should be performed by qualified personnel beginning when the roof is completed and at least twice a year thereafter. These semi-annual inspections should preferably be performed in the spring and in the fall.
The inspection should concentrate on "high risk" areas such as roof hatches, drains and around rooftop equipment. The inspection should also encompass a general inspection of the entire roofing system. Inspections should also include examination of the roof deck from the underside for evidence of leaks, deteriorated decking, structural cracks or movement and other deficiencies.
Inspections should also be performed whenever any of the following occur:
Severe weather conditions -- examine the roofing system for severely ponded conditions, debris and any other damage to the building components that may allow moisture to infiltrate.
After repair or replacement of rooftop equipment -- and at any other time when the roof is exposed to activities from other trades where damages may occur.
Contact Wendell's Roofing and Remodeling for your best solution.
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Leak Investigation
Leak investigation should begin with a thorough, visual inspection in the general location on the roof where leaks have been detected. In addition, investigation and inspection of the following is recommended:
• Inspection of field splices, areas of ponded water (if the roof is dry at the time of investigation, areas of ponded water can be identified by accumulated residue on the system).
• Examination of lower roofing areas for moisture beneath the system (soft insulation can be detected when walking on the system).
• Check areas around mechanical rooftop equipment, drains, gravel stops, curbs, expa nsion joints, pipes etc. to identify cuts, punctures or damaged field splices.
• Explore the condition of metal flashing (i.e., edging, coping, expansion joint covers etc.) for improperly sealed joints.
When a visible source of the leak has not been identified, wet the system at the anticipated leak area with water. Use a squeegee to remove the excess water. As the system dries, small cuts or tears will remain wet.
Contact Wendell's Roofing and Remodeling for your best solution.
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Emergency Repairs
Only qualified workers should perform repairs. The building owner may perform a temporary repair to provide immediate protection from the elements. However, a representative from Wendell's Roofing and Remodeling must complete a permanent repair when weather conditions permit.
------------------------ Most Common Problems - Flat Roofs
Condition: Bare Spots
Description/Cause: Leaking in surface asphalt or asphalt and aggregate. Weathering causes those materials to oxidize and wear away after a period of time. These areas are most often created by lack of asphalt during original application.
Damage Created By Condition: Roofing felts exposed to the elements lose volatile oils due to heat and UV. This loss makes the felts susceptible to absorption of moisture and premature failure.
Condition: Copings
Description/Cause: Deterioration or cracking of the joint material leave an opening between the sections. This condition is created by movement between the building wall and the caps, accelerated by freeze-thaw cycles.
Damage Created By Condition: Copings allow moisture to enter the wall and roof system causing ruptures to the flashings and roof systems. Separation of the mortar and spalling of the brick or block can also occur. General deterioration of the parapet and roofing system will occur.
Condition: Porous Walls
Description/Cause: If left untreated, the mortar joints or concrete blocks will begin to absorb moisture. Water enters mortar joints and freeze-thaw cycles cause general deterioration. Staining, discoloration and spalling are signs of deterioration.
Damage Created By Condition: If allowed to continue, water entering the wall system will eventually cause a complete breakdown of the structure.
Condition: Blisters
Description/Cause: Blisters are pockets in the roofing material with a spongy feel. They are usually formed by the pressure of moisture beneath the surface or from lack of adhesion causing dry spots.
Damage Created By Condition: Foot traffic, especially during colder temperatures, can rupture the membrane, allowing water to enter the roofing system and the interior of the building.
Condition: Alligatoring
Description/Cause: Surface asphalt cracks into large segments. When the defects are fine, it is referred to as checking. This condition is found on smooth surface asphalt roofs. This condition is caused by the drying out of the exposed asphalt surface from the sun.
Damage Created By Condition: If left unattended, the alligatoring condition can develop into splits in the roof membrane. Once split, water will enter the roofing system and the interior of the building.
Condition: Splits
Description/Cause: A separation or fracture in a roofing material results from movement of the substrate. Splits are caused by excessive movement in the roof system. Constant expansion and contraction which accompanies freeze-thaw cycles can cause the movement, as well as cupped insulation, loss of volatile oils in the felts, and lack of tensile strength in the membrane itself.
Damage Created By Condition: Interior leakage, saturated insulation, and roof deck deterioration will result from splits. Always try to determine the contributing force behind the splitting to help alleviate any recurrence.
Condition: Flashing Holes
Description/Cause: Two types of holes are generally found: (1) caused by foot traffic and (2) caused by the elements.
Damage Created By Condition: Moisture can find its way into the interior of the building and roof insulation system. Premature failure of the system will occur.
Condition: Pitch Pans
Description/Cause: Metal sleeves placed around small and medium protrusions which penetrate the roofing system. Movement from the protrusion will break the waterproofing compound, creating cracks. During the hot summer weather, the asphalt will sometimes bleed down into the interior around the protrusion leaving the pan dry.
Damage Created By Condition: Water can enter through a defective pitch pan and find its way into the interior of the building by running down the protrusion. Also the moisture will enter the roof system and can lead to premature failure.
Condition: Emergency
Description/Cause: Frequently leaks will occur during bad weather making emergency repairs necessary. Rain and melting snow and ice will allow water to enter the building thru ruptures and other deficiencies, creating hazards to personnel and equipment.
Damage Created By Condition: Water entering the buildings interior and roof system causes severe and costly damage to building personnel and roof system.
Condition: Flashing Deteriorated
Description/Cause: Similar conditions occur to flashings as to roofing membranes in the field. A loss of granules in the mineral - surfaced flashing sheet and a change of color are usually the first signs of deterioration.
Damage Created By Condition: Wearing away of the surface coatings or granules will allow the flashing felts to absorb moisture and premature failure to the system can result. Leakage into the building and roof insulation will also occur.
Condition: Flashing Separation
Description/Cause: Flashing has pulled loose or away from the wall. This is caused by exceeding the maximum height and weight prescribed. Improperly installed or leaking counterflashing can allow water to enter behind the flashing and cause flashing to fall away.
Damage Created By Condition: Flashing falling away creates a perfect funnel for water to accumulate and enter the roofing system and building. This will cause interior damage and premature failure of the system.
Condition: Ruptures
Description/Cause: Ruptures are breaks, punctures and cracks in the roofing membrane caused by numerous and varied sources. Ruptures are generally caused by blisters being broken by foot traffic, mechanical fasteners backing out of the deck and puncture from falling or dropped objects.
Damage Created By Condition: Leakage to the interior of the building is the most serious threat. Secondly, damage to roof insulation, roof system and roof deck will occur if left unattended. Premature failure will result if repairs are not made immediately.
Condition: Metal Base Flashing and Bituminous Counter Flashing Problems
Description/Cause: The use of metal base flashings in the construction of built-up roofs is not recommended.
Damage Created By Condition: Metal base flashings easily separate from bituminous materials and stripping felts crack at the edge of the metal because of the difference in expansion coefficients between the materials. Open joints between metal pieces and deterioration of the metal are also sources for water entry. Inside and outside corners are particularly vulnerable areas. For these reasons, metal base flashings should be replaced with bituminous base flashings whenever possible.
Condition: Metal Counter Flashing Problems
Description/Cause: Metal counter flashings protect the top of bituminous base flashings from water entry. The most common metal counter flashings problems are noted in the following paragraph.
Damage Created By Condition:
- Counter flashings located too high above the base flashing
- Metal deterioration caused by lack or loss of protective coating
- Cracks and open joints between metal pieces
- The separation of counter flashings from vertical surfaces
- Reglets not being sealed
- Counter flashings not tightly fit to base flashings
Condition: Penetration Flashing Problems
Description/Cause: Penetrations through the built-up roof membrane are usually flashed in one of two ways. Individual pipes and small vents usually use flat, metal flange flashings that are placed directly on the last ply of roofing material and are stripped in with felts and mastic or felts and bitumen. Larger penetrations and groups of smaller penetrations usually use curbs constructed of wood, metal or concrete, flashed with bituminous base flashing and metal counter flashings.
Damage Created By Condition:
- The failure to properly design the flashing for the penetration.
- Open or broken seams in metal curbs caused by expansion and contraction.
- Standing water behind penetration curbs caused by the omission of crickets.
- Sagging or separation base flashings caused by omission of top wood nailers.
- Missing or deteriorated counter flashing.
- Splitting or separation of the felt stripping over the edge of metal flanges.
- Improper priming and stripping of metal surfaces.
- Fastener backout and separation of the metal flashing flange from the roof around penetration flashings.
- Movement between stack vents or pipes and the flashing.
Condition: Drain Flashing Problems
Description/Cause: A roof's drainage system includes the gutters, leaders, drain openings and scuppers, as well as the slope provided by the structural deck, tapered insulation, crickets and sumps. The primary function of the drainage system is to prevent the retention of water on the roof by removing water from the roof as quickly as possible. Every roof, including so-called "dead-level" roofs, must have some provision for drainage. Further, it is important that the drainage system be kept free from debris that might interfere with the proper flow of surface water.
Damage Created By Condition: Many roof problems can be traced directly to inadequately designed or improperly installed drainage systems; for example, the use of only one drain; the failure to install overflow scuppers in parapet walls; the placement of drains next to support columns instead of at points of maximum deflection; loose or missing drain clamping rings. Ponded water is the principal indication of inadequate drainage and may indicate the presence of structural defects.
Condition: Gravel Stop and Metal Edge Strip Problems
Description/Cause: The primary function of gravel stops (for aggregate-surface roofs) and metal roof edge strips (for smooth-surface roofs) is to close off the edges of the roof to prevent wind damage or blow-offs. Another important function of gravel stops is to prevent the loss of aggregate surfacing near the edge of the roof.
Damage Created By Condition: The principal problems with gravel stops and metal edge strips are leakage through open or broken joints between metal pieces, and splitting of the stripping felts at metal edges. For these reasons, gravel stops and metal edge strips should be raised out of the water line whenever possible by using raised wood nailers and tapered edge strips. The use of interior drainage is preferred. However, where water must drain over the metal edge, scupper cutouts are preferable to continuous edge drainage.
Condition: Problems with Rooftop Equipment, Signs, Braces and Supports
Description/Cause: Often, the roof is used as a platform for all types of mechanical equipment,ladder struts, antennas, flag poles, signs, bracing etc. These items should not be placed on the rooftop except when absolutely necessary. They should never be mounted or placed directly to the top of the roof membrane, as leaks beneath or adjacent to the supports for this equipment are impossible to repair. Rather, they should be mounted to a support structure or to raised curbtype supports. Flat flange or curb flashings can then be used to keep the roof watertight, and roof replacement and recovering can be done without disturbing or removing the equipment. Pitch pans, however, should not be used to keep supports watertight, and should be avoided where possible.
Damage Created By Condition: They should never be mounted or placed directly to the top of the roof membrane, as leaks beneath or adjacent to the supports for this equipment are impossible to repair.
Contact Wendell's Roofing and Remodeling for your best solution.
------------------------
General Preventative Maintenance
Semi-annual inspections (preferable one in the spring and one in the fall) is recommended to identify and solve problems as they occur. Roofs get more abuse from the elements than any other part of the building. Preventative maintenance is a key element to saving money and to extending the roof life. This section will provide some general guidelines on how to maintain your roof and on how to attain maximum performance from the roofing system.
Provide Proper Drainage
Keep the roof surface (including gutters and down spouts) clean of leaves, twigs, paper or accumulated dirt at drain areas to avoid clogging. Ponding of water on the surface of the system will increase the probability of moisture entering the structure in the event of a puncture or cut in the roofing system.
Exercise care with Tools and Equipment
Use caution when using tools and equipment on the roof to avoid unnecessary punctures.
Exercise care with Snow Removal
Use caution when removing snow from the rooftop, again, to avoid unnecessary punctures.
Ensure Adequate Ventilation and Insulation
Ensure that there is adequate ventilation and insulation on the roof and overhangs. Check in the attic to determine if there is a proper amount of insulation. Typical signs associated with a lack of ventilation and insulation will be excessive ice dams at the gutter line.
Trees and Other Obstructions
Ensure that any trees, shrubs or other obstructions are not leaning on or hanging over and touching your roof. This may cause shingles or roof material to wear out.
Contact Wendell's Roofing and Remodeling for your best solution.
------------------------
Periodic Inspections
Periodic inspections should be performed by qualified personnel beginning when the roof is completed and at least twice a year thereafter. These semi-annual inspections should preferably be performed in the spring and in the fall.
The inspections should concentrate on "high risk" areas such as roof vents, gutters, down spouts, skylights and chimneys in the winter months. The inspections should also encompass a general inspection of the entire roofing system. Inspections should also include examination of the roof deck from the underside for evidence of leaks, deteriorated decking, the integrity of the roofing material including flashing and sealant in critical areas along with other deficiencies.
Inspections should also be performed whenever any of the following occur:
Severe weather conditions - examine the roofing system for missing shingles and other signs of damage.
Ice thawing - leakage typically occurs in the winter months after a sizeable amount of snow and ice has thawed.
Contact Wendell's Roofing and Remodeling for your best solution.
------------------------
Emergency Repairs
Only qualified workers should perform repairs. The building owner may perform a temporary repair to provide immediate protection from the elements. However, a representative from Wendell's Roofing and Remodeling must complete a permanent repair when weather conditions permit.
In an emergency Wendell's can protect you from the elements and help keep the animals out of your home.
------------------------ Most Common Problems - Pitched Roofs
Condition: Lack of Maintenance
Description/Cause: The failure to find and correct minor roof deterioration in the earliest stages is probably the greatest cause of premature roof problems. This is particularly true of roofing materials applied on relatively low-sloped roofs.
Damage Created By Condition: Premature roof problems.
Left to right: Deteriorated roof, poor patch job, rotted wood and rotted wood replacement.
Condition: Weathering
Description/Cause: All roofing materials deteriorate from exposure to the weather at rates determined largely by the kind of material and the conditions of exposure. In general, inorganic roofing materials tend to deteriorate less rapidly from exposure than organic roofing materials. All types of roofing materials may be damaged by hail. Exposure to air pollutants and industrial or salt-laden atmospheres may accelerate the deterioration process of some roofing materials.
Damage Created By Condition: Accelerated deterioration process of some roofing materials.
Condition: Wind Damage
Description/Cause: Roofing materials are subject to damage from strong winds and flying debris. Generally, roofs are not designed to withstand winds of hurricane and tornado intensity. However, roofs may also be damaged by winds of moderate intensity, with gust that may reach 50 to 75 MPH. The primary cause of wind damage is from the partial vacuum created by wind blowing over the edge of the roof. Nature tries to neutralize the low-pressure area by bringing in air from a higher pressure area, usually from inside the building. This air pushes up on the bottom side of the roof assembly and, over time, loosens fasteners and breaks the adhesion making the roof susceptible to damage from the next moderate or strong wind. To counteract the effects of wind-uplift forces, the roofing and insulation should be adequately fastened to the roof deck, and a securely-fastened perimeter detail should be provided.
Damage Created By Condition: This air pushes up on the bottom side of the roof assembly and, over time, loosens fasteners and breaks the adhesion making the roof susceptible to damage from the next moderate or strong wind.
Condition: Improper Design
Description/Cause: Troublesome and costly roofing problems are often the result of faulty initial design of the roof system. Design deficiencies are costly to correct, and usually can only be corrected during roof replacement. However, unless design deficiencies are discovered and corrected during roof repair or re-roofing, the problems relating to them most likely will recur. Some examples of faulty design are listed in the next paragraph.
Damage Created By Condition: Weak roof structures that deflect excessively under load, causing splitting of the roof membrane. Inadequate roof slope, sagging roof structure or insufficient number or location of drains, resulting in ponding water. Inadequate provision for expansion and contraction of changes in deck material or direction, causing membrane splits. Incompatible roof material; i.e., the use of asphalt to adhere a torch-down material.
Condition: Flashing Failures
Description/Cause: The function of flashing is to provide a watertight junction between roofing materials and roof projections or other parts of the structure, and between roof sections. Flashings should be designed to furnish service for at least as long as the materials used in the field of the roof. Flashings are the most vulnerable part of any roof. Their importance and the importance of maintaining them properly cannot be overemphasized.
Damage Created By Condition: Many early roof problems are flashing problems. Often, repairing the flashings or providing new flashings is all that is needed to make the roof watertight again. Most flashing problems result from inadequate flashing design or faulty construction. Many flashing problems can be reduced or eliminated by careful examination by competent inspectors during roof installation, and by regularly scheduled inspection and maintenance. In many instances, leaks occur at flashings where there are no flashing defects. These leaks may be the result of open joints in a masonry wall or coping cap, which permits water to enter behind the flashings and into the building. This problem may be eliminated by "through-wall" flashings.
Condition: Base-Flashing Problems
Description/Cause: Some common causes of base-flashing problems are: Insufficient number of base-flashing plies.
• Improper base-flashing height.
• Insufficient protective coating.
Damage Created By Condition: Accelerated weathering and deterioration.
• Open vertical end laps or seams.
Damage Created By Condition: Insufficient sealing.
• Insufficient adhesion or movement between vertical surfaces and the roof deck.
Damage Created By Condition: Separation of base flashings from vertical surfaces.
• Loose insulation.
Damage Created By Condition: Base flashings to separate from vertical surfaces.
• Improper fastening of base flashings to walls or curbs.
Damage Created By Condition: Sagging or separation of the flashing from the vertical surface.
• Deteriorating substrates.
Damage Created By Condition: Base flashings to separate from the surface, or permitting water to enter behind base flashings.
Contact Wendell's Roofing and Remodeling for your best solution.
------------------------
General Preventative Maintenance
Attic ventilation is an important part of roofing. Proper attic ventilation extends the life of the roof and reduced problems because it minimizes the temperature differential between the attic and the outside air. This removes moisture and heat from the attic. Trapped heat and moisture can raise energy costs, cause ice dams, and damage roof system components as well as structural and personal items located inside the attic Condensation that forms can be caused by the use of washing machines, dish washers, bath tubs, showers and tumble driers unless these items are properly ventilated through the roof. In some cases condensation can be bad enough to be
mistaken for a roof leak!
There are many types of attic vents available. They come in a wide variety of sizes, styles and shapes. Some will ventilate better than others depending on the roof configuration, attic size, climate etc. To properly ventilate a roof two types of vents are needed: (1) intake vents (located near the eaves of the roof) which allow fresh air into the attic and (2) exhaust vents which, in conjunction with intake vents, use the natural forces of wind pressure and thermal effect to ventilate the attic space. Without these vents, heat and moisture will build up in the attic area and combine. This combination causes the sheathing to rot, shingles to age prematurely, and the insulation to lose its effectiveness.
NOTE: Make sure your attic insulation does not block the intake vents. The use of baffles can help keep the insulation away from the intake vents.
Roof Vents For Attic Ventilation:
Static roof vents act as covered openings to allow air to escape from the attic. Usually several static roof vents are required to adequately ventilate the attic. They should be evenly spaced across the roof and installed near the top of the roof where heated air will rise. Static vents do not require electricity to work and thus are less expensive to operate. They are available in either metal or plastic and a variety of colors allowing you to choose what will work best with your roof.
The power roof vent is also covered to keep the elements from entering the opening in your roof. A power fan (electric or solar power) under the covering pulls air out from the attic. The power fan is usually connected to a thermostat which dictates when the fan runs. This thermostat is set to a temperature of the installers choice and can be re-set to a different temperature at a later time. Often one power roof vent can do the same ventilation work of multiple static roof vents.
Contact Wendell's Roofing and Remodeling for your best solution.
------------------------ Most Common Problems - Ventilation
Condition: Deck Deflection
The deck of the roof can warp, deteriorate, become spongy (soft)and very dangerous to walk on. The adhesives used in the plywood can deteriorate or dry rot. This problem can develop in a very short period of time (as little as two years in some instances). This occurs because one side the of plywood decking / sheeting needs be able to "breathe" by being exposed to circulating air....no circulation combined with condensation = wood cannot "breathe."
Condition: Rust
Water vapor will condense first on anything metal inside the attic; this will eventually cause the metal to rust. Heads can rust off nails, metal plumbing straps or straps holding HVAC ducting can rust in two causing the ducting to fall onto the ceiling joists or through a suspended ceiling or drywall. This problem is more common in humid climates.
Condition: Dry Rot / Mold, Mildew & Fungi
Generally in colder climates the high inside humidity combined with low outside temperatures can cause frost to form on the bottom of the roof deck. While the health concern regarding mold has yet to be medically proven, mold, mildew and fungi WILL cause dry rot. Dry rot does not remain in a localized area, it will spread and damage any lumber that is effected.
Condition: Premature Conditions
• The roof system itself will deteriorate prematurely.
• Cooling units will need to be serviced or replaced prematurely because of excessive use.
Condition: Ice Dams
Ice dams are the result of melting snow continually re-freezing at the roof perimeter and then backing up under the shingles and causing leaks. Proper ventilation used in conjunction with heavy insulation and an air barrier can create a proper roof structure that will help eliminate ice dams.
Condition: Common Misconceptions
• Many consumers think that if they have only one power vent or turbine vent working near the ridge line, then their attic is properly ventilated. In order for an exhaust vent to function properly intake vents are required to work with it. If there are no intake vents the air has to enter somewhere. The air will then enter through the same exhaust vents and exit through others. The result is circulation of the air only immediately surrounding the vents or in between the vents leaving the remainder of the attic unventilated. This is shown in the picture below:
• Many consumers think they will improve ventilation by installing vents all throughout the roof surface. However, instead of improving ventilation it actually causes a short circuit. For instance, a homeowner/building manager has a full soffit and ridge vent system installed. But thinking that more is better, he/she decides to install a couple of vents about halfway up the slope. Instead of improving ventilation, he/she has now hampered it because air is now exiting out the vents in the middle of the roof, before it reaches the ridge leaving the attic partially unvented. Depending on wind pressure, air will also be taken in at the intermediate vents reducing the intake at the eaves where it should be.
• There is also the problem of weather infiltration. Wind blowing across a roof surface creates a negative air pressure. Nature will automatically try to compensate for it by moving air from a location of higher pressure, such as inside the attic. When the air is then removed from the attic in this manner, it has to be replaced. If the proper intake ventilation isn't used, then air will be brought
Contact Wendell's Roofing and Remodeling for your best solution.
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General Preventative Maintenance
Because warm air naturally rises, the attic or roof area of your home is your first priority for insulating. Insulation reduces the upward flow of heat, keeping it inside your home longer. That means you'll stay warmer, and your heating system will not come on as often -- reducing your utility costs! In Michigan 's cold climate, insulating existing attics to an R-value of at least .38 is recommended. R-value is the measure of an insulation material's ability to resist heat flow. It's measured per inch of material.
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Roof Types vs. Insulation
How your attic should be insulated depends on how your roof is built. Common attic/roof types are:
Unfinished Attic
In these homes, the attic is not part of the living space. You can often get into the attic by ladder through a hatch usually located in a hallway or closet ceiling. Unfinished attics are generally the easiest type to insulate; the insulation goes between the framing members (joists) of the attic floor, which is also your living area's ceiling. Capable do-it-yourselfers can tackle this job with advice from a professional. Rolls of glass fiber or loose-fill cellulose have been the insulation of choice for most do-it-yourself jobs.
Finished Attic
A portion of these attics are living spaces. As a result, insulation should be placed in the exterior walls (called kneewalls), the entire ceiling and the outer floor areas -- those not part of the living space. An experienced professional should be called upon for this job since it often requires the use of several insulation products and use of special insulation blowing equipment.
Flat, Vaulted or Cathedral Ceilings
These types of ceilings don't have attics above them, and due to little or no space to add insulation, it may be impossible to add insulation to this roof type. If there is space, the insulation must be blown or placed between the interior ceiling and the exterior roof. It's very important that these construction types be well-ventilated and sealed to prevent moisture problems. They, too, usually require the expertise of a contractor.
Contact Wendell's Roofing and Remodeling for your best solution.
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Adding Insulation To Your Unfinished Attic
Here are the steps either you or a weatherization contractor should take to insulate or add insulation to your unfinished attic:
Detective Work
Go up into your attic with a flashlight and a dust mask to investigate. CAUTION: If you find vermiculite insulation in your attic, DO NOT PROCEED. Since Vermiculite may contain asbestos, always have it tested before continuing. Measure the amount of insulation present and determine its type -- it's most likely mineral or rock wool, glass fiber or cellulose fiber. If there is already insulation up there and it's dry and evenly spread out, you can leave it alone and add more insulation on top if needed. You can put batt insulation over existing loose-fill or vice versa. Just make sure that the new insulation doesn't have a vapor barrier, which would trap moisture inside the old insulation. If the existing insulation is or has been wet, find and correct the moisture problem. It could be a leaky roof, or it may be caused by too much air leaking up from your living space. When warm air from your house rises into the attic, it carries with it large amounts of moisture, too. When the moisture hits the cold surfaces of your attic, it can condense and cause a number of problems: wet insulation that doesn't insulate well, mold growth and damage to sheetrock and other building materials. To control moisture, also make sure bathroom and kitchen vents are not vented directly into the attic. They should be vented through the roof.
Electrical
Check all wiring and electrical junction boxes to assure wiring is not exposed and boxes are covered. Many old homes have a two wire system referred to as "knob and tube wiring." This type of wiring should not be covered with insulation.
Seal Air Leaks
Insulating won't save you much money or keep you much warmer unless you first seal all the air (and moisture) passageways between your living space and your attic. Common air leakage spots include the tops of interior and exterior walls, around pipes and heating ducts, light fixtures and wires. Conventional caulking methods work fine, though special care should be taken around chimneys and plumbing stacks. You should also weatherstrip the attic hatch door, treating it as you would a door to the outside.
Install a Vapor Barrier
Moisture can also cause problems by traveling right up through the ceiling and into the insulation. If your attic is being insulated for the first time, to head off a potential moisture problem, you can lay down a vapor barrier (often a sheet of polyethylene plastic) on the attic floor before pouring in loose-fill insulation. Or you can purchase batt insulation with a kraft paper or foil vapor barrier attached. Be sure to install this type of vapor barrier closest to your living space. If there is already insulation in your attic with no vapor barrier under it, you can paint your ceilings with vapor barrier paint -- especially in high-moisture rooms such as kitchens and bathrooms. If some insulation already exists, it is important that new insulation not have a vapor barrier. Preferably, the new insulation should be unfaced -- manufactured without a barrier attached. If unfaced insulation is not available, use the vapor-barrier type but remove the barrier or slash it free with a knife.
Ventilate
Proper ventilation is another key to a successful attic insulation job. It lets your attic breathe, ridding it of moisture in the winter and keeping it cooler in summer. If you install a vapor barrier, you need one square foot of free vent area for every 300 square feet of attic floor area. Without a vapor barrier, you need twice as much ventilation: one square foot of vent for every 150 square feet of floor. Vents should be located on opposite ends of the attic, with some near the top and others near the bottom to allow for good cross-ventilation. Talk with a contractor about which types of vents would be best for your attic. Refer to our Ventilation section for additional on this subject.
Insulate
Insulate your attic as described in the Roof Types vs. Insulation discussion above.
Contact Wendell's Roofing and Remodeling for your best solution.
------------------------ Most Common Problems - Insulation
High Energy Bills
Insulating your home can reduce the upward flow of heat, keeping it inside your home longer.
Frozen Sprinkler Systems
Building codes now require insulation on the underside of roof sheathing. This requirement applies to commercial buildings over 5,000 sq. ft. which have a sprinkler system in the attic. This prevents the fire sprinkler systems from freezing.
Attic Insulation Failure
There are two very important questions that must be asked and answered by every construction design-whether it is for new construction, for additions or for renovations:
1. How does heat enter the attic, and how can those heat sources be reduced?
2. How does heat exit the attic?
The rule of thumb is that properly vented attic air should never be more than 15 degrees hotter than the outside air. A temperature difference of greater than 15 degrees is an indication of additional heat sources that should be eliminated and/or an indication of poor attic ventilation.
Contact Wendell's Roofing and Remodeling for your best solution.
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General Preventative Maintenance
Prevent warm, moist air in living spaces from infiltrating into the attic with a good air barrier and appropriate water vapor control at the base of the attic.
1. Provide good attic ventilation to replace warm air in the attic with cold air outside.
Ventilation: A soffit-to-ridge ventilation system is the most effective ventilation scheme you can use to cool roof sheathing. Power vents, turbines, roof vents and gable louvers just aren't as good. Soffit and ridge vents should run continuously along the length of the house. A baffled ridge vent is best because it will exhaust attic air regardless of wind direction. The exhaust pressure created by the ridge vent sucks cold make-up air into the attic through the soffit vents. A 2-inch space or "air-chute" should be provided between the top of the insulation and the underside of the roof sheathing in all applications. The in-coming "soffit" air washes the underside of the roof sheathing with a continuous flow of cold air.
CAUTION: Be sure to install insulation baffles above the exterior wall to protect the insulation from the air that blows in through the soffit vents.
2. Provide adequate attic insulation to reduce the transmission of heat into the attic from living spaces below.
Insulation: Houses in the northern United States should be equipped with ceiling insulation of at least R-38 (about 12 inches of fiberglass or cellulose). The insulation should be continuous and consistently deep. The most notable problem area is located above the exterior wall. Raised-heel trusses or roof-framing details that allow for R-38 above the exterior wall should be used in new construction. In existing structures, where the space between the wall's top plate and underside of the roof sheathing is restricted, install high R/inch insulating foam (R-6/inch). Be sure to seal the insulation at this point to prevent warm-air leakage from the living space.
Air Leakage: Insulation retards conductive heat loss, but a special effort must be made to block the flow of warm indoor air (convection) into the attic or roof area. Small holes allow significant volumes of warm indoor air to pass into attic spaces. In new construction avoid making penetrations through the ceiling whenever possible. But when you can't avoid making penetrations or when you need to air-tighten existing homes use urethane spray-foam (in a can), caulking, packed cellulose, or weatherstripping to seal all ceiling leaks like:
• wire penetrations
• plumbing penetrations
• ceiling light fixtures
• attic hatches
• chimneys
• bathroom exhaust fans
• intersection of interior partitions and ceiling
What Not To Do
• Do not routinely remove snow from the roof. It will likely lead to shingle damage.
• Do not attempt to "chip away" the ice of an ice dam. It will likely lead to shingle damage.
• Do not install mechanical equipment or water heaters in attics, especially in cold climates.
• Do not use salt or calcium chloride to melt snow on a roof. These chemicals are very corrosive and can shorten the life of metal gutters, down spouts and flashings. Runoff with concentrations of these chemicals can damage nearby grass and plants.
• Keeping the gutters clean of leaves will not reduce the occurrence of ice dams. However, clean gutters can keep them from overflowing and spilling rainwater next to the house. This can cause moisture problems in the house.
What To Do
• Thoroughly clean leaves, sticks and other debris from your home's gutters and down spouts. This lets the melting snow flow into gutters and through down spouts, just as they are designed. This can be accomplished through twice a year maintenance inspections.
• Keep snow on your roof to a minimum. Long handled tools on the market called "roof rakes" let you stand on the ground and pull snow off the roof. Keeping heavy snow loads off your roof reduces the chances for both ice dam formation and roof failure due to the weight. However, using any type of tool on the roof can cause damage. It is best to contact a professional regarding ice dam removal.
• Keep gutters and down spouts free of snow and icicles.
• Evaluate the insulation and ventilation in your attic. Most experts agree that the R-value of attic insulation should be at least R-30 [R-38 is preferable in northern climates]. In addition, good airflow from under the eaves or soffit area along the underside of the roof and out through the roof vents is essential. The insulation prevents heat loss from the interior of the home. The venting allows the attic air to stay cold enough to prevent or minimize the freeze/thaw cycle on the roof. Consult Wendell's Roofing and Remodeling for these improvements.
If Ice Dams are Causing Water Damage
When a large amount of snow accumulates on a roof, heat loss from insufficient insulation and poor attic ventilation can melt the snow from the underside. As the water reaches the roof edge, where it's colder, it forms a dam. The dammed water backs up under the roofing and leaks into your home. The best way to prevent thawing from the underside is to maintain a cold roof.
The following are short-term fixes. In order to avoid the same problem in the future, a qualified contractor from Wendell's Roofing and Remodeling should assess the amount of attic insulation and attic ventilation (especially around where the ice dam formed) and look for holes in the air barrier between the living spaces and attic.
If water is visible at an exterior wall or ceiling where there is snow on the roof above it, act quickly to avoid extensive damage. Hire a contractor to effectively remove most of the snow from the roof above the ice dam. The contractor should avoid touching the roof with removal equipment or even walking on the roof if possible. Cold roofs are more prone to damage because they are more brittle than they are in the summer.
Have the contractor create one or two grooves in the ice dam to allow the ponding water to drain off. These grooves should not be taken down to the roofing as this may damage the roof. If necessary, the contractor can use heat tape in the groove on a temporary basis to keep the groove open.
Contact Wendell's Roofing and Remodeling for your best solution.
------------------------ Most Common Problems - Ice Dams
Two types of attic water damage are common in cold climates:
1. Ice Dams
2. Condensation of Water Vapor on cold surfaces in the attic = Water Damage.
Ice dams sometimes occur on sloping roofs in climates with freezing temperatures. When the temperature in your attic is above freezing, it causes snow on the roof to melt and run down the sloping roof. When the snowmelt runs down the roof and hits the colder eaves, it re-freezes.
If this cycle repeats over several days, the freezing snowmelt builds up and forms a dam of ice, behind which water ponds. The ponding water can back up under the roof covering and leak into the attic or along exterior walls.
Research shows that keeping the attic air temperature below freezing when the outside air temperature is in the low 20's can reduce the occurrence of ice dams. Research also shows that exposure in the winter has little effect on attic air temperature. Warm air from living spaces below penetrates into the attic typically causing the formation of ice dams.
Damage
It's easy to understand that allowing water to leak into your house is a bad idea. Ice dams cause millions of dollars of damage every year. Much of the damage is apparent. Waterstained ceilings, dislodged roof shingles, sagging ice-filled gutters, peeling paint, and damaged plaster are all easily recognized and usually repaired when weather or budgets permit. But other damage is not as obvious and often goes unchecked.
Ice dams usually develop along roof eaves and above the plateline of exterior walls. Heat lost from homes at this point aggravates snow melting and ice-dam development. There are two reasons for increased heat loss at this point: Rafters on most homes sit directly on top of exterior walls leaving a shallow space for insulation between the top of the wall and underside of the roof sheathing: Low R-value = heat loss! And secondly, builders are not particularly fussy when it comes to air-sealing this area to prevent the movement of warm indoor air up to the underside of the roof surface. Air can leak through wire and plumbing penetrations here. Also warm indoor air can leak from the wall cavities rising upward and passing between the small cracks that exist between the wall top-plate and drywall.
Roof leaks cause wet attic insulation. In the short term, wet insulation doesn't work well. Over the long term, water-soaked insulation is compressed so that even after it dries, the insulation in the ceiling is not as thick. Thinner insulation means lower R-values. It is a vicious cycle. The more heat lost - the more ice dams form - the more it leaks - the more the insulation gets damaged - and so on. As a result you pay more to heat (and cool) your house. Cellulose insulation is hygroscopic and particularly vulnerable to the hazards of wetting.
Water often leaks down within the wall frame where it wets wall insulation and causes it to sag leaving uninsulated voids at the top of the wall . Energy dollars are again robbed, but more importantly, moisture gets trapped within the wall cavity between the exterior plywood sheathing and interior vapor barrier. The result: smelly, rotting wall cavities. Structural framing members can decay. Metal fasteners may corrode. Mold and mildew can form on wall surfaces as a result of elevated humidity levels. Exterior and interior paint blisters and peels. And the well-being of allergysensitive individuals is compromised.
Peeling of wall paint deserves special attention here because its cause may be difficult to recognize. It is unlikely that wall paint (interior or exterior) will blister or peel when ice dams are visible. Paint peels long after the ice and all signs of a roof leak have evaporated. Water from ice dams infiltrate wall cavities. It dampens building materials and raises the relative humidity within wall frames. The moisture within the wall cavity eventually wets interior wall coverings and exterior claddings as it tries to escape (as either liquid or vapor). As a result, interior and exterior walls shed its skin of paint.
So the message here is to check your home carefully when ice dams form. Investigate even when there doesn't appear to be a leak. Look at the underside of the roof sheathing and roof trim to make sure they haven't gotten wet. Check the insulation for dampness. And when leaks inside your home develop, be prepared. Water penetration often follows pathways which are difficult to follow. Don't just patch the roof leak. Make sure that the roof sheathing hasn't rotted or that other less obvious problems in your ceiling or walls haven't developed. And then detail a comprehensive plan to fix the damage. But more importantly, solve the problem.
Contact Wendell's Roofing and Remodeling for your best solution.
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General Preventative Maintenance
Gutter maintenance is a terrific way to preserve your roof and save yourself some money down the line with repairs, which could have otherwise been avoided with a little maintenance. Think of gutter maintenance as a preventative medicine for the structure of your roof. Gutter maintenance is an important step to maintaining your roof, your home and your budget.
Time and water can be damaging elements. If they can create the Grand Canyon imagine how effectively they can destroy your home or building's foundation. Gutters prevent damaging water from running across windows and doors and down the sides of your structure. They also channel water away from your foundation, reducing the chance that you building will someday be washing into your neighbor's driveway. The truth is that gutters a are necessary part of the roofing structure.
Contact Wendell's Roofing and Remodeling for your best solution.
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Removal Of Debris
The first step in gutter maintenance is to remove any and all debris, including leaves, twigs or other objects from your roof. Using a regular broom, walk around your home and sweep away any visible debris. Avoid walking directly on the roof as this is both dangerous to you, and also to the structure of the roof itself. You can get to those hard-to-reach spots by using a ladder. If you have a fear of heights, call a contractor or ask a friend to help you.
Once your roof is clear of debris, move on to inspecting the gutters. It's inevitable that, everything from your roof, will probably make it's way into the gutters. Look for leaves, twigs, rocks or anything that could cause damage and remove it carefully without applying any pressure to the gutters.
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Gutter Cleaning
Gutter cleaning is one of the most important home-maintenance services needed at least twice a year. It is often overlooked until gutters actually overflow and cause substantial damage. Preventive maintenance is the most efficient way to prolong the life of your gutters, roof, windows and siding.
Gutter cleaning consists of cleaning out leaves and debris from gutters and down spouts and cleaning off all accessible roof areas. It also includes cleaning up gutter cleaning related debris off the ground after the gutters are cleaned.
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Gutter Screens Or Covers
Protective gutter guards can be installed to prevent clogs from occurring. There are many different types. However, two most common are:
• Inexpensive metal or plastic screens keep the leaves out of the gutter, but may trap them on top of the screen.
• Solid gutter shields are more expensive but extend across most of the gutter width allowing water to roll into the gutter while leaves and foreign materials are pushed over the side.
Protective screens are also available to put inside the gutters to prevent debris from entering down spouts. This is a particularly good idea if your down spouts empty into drain lines, since it reduced the possibility that those lines will become stopped up.
Contact Wendell's Roofing and Remodeling for your best solution.
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Gutter Fitting & Down Spouts
Once you've completed this step of gutter maintenance, take a minute to examine the gutter fitting which connects to the down spout. Remove any debris to avoid clogging. If you do find any clogged areas, remove the debris immediately. The down spout should provide the water runoff with proper direction so that it drains away from your home. Water must be able to move freely through the gutter, the down spout and finally to the ground. If any part of the gutter or down spout becomes clogged, there is a potential for the weight of the water to cause damage.
Before finishing your gutter maintenance, make sure that you have checked the gutter supports and down spouts one last time. Once everything is cleaned, flush your gutters with water. Using a standard water hose, wash the roof and make sure that the water flows properly from the roof and through the gutters. This process is very important to make sure that everything is working properly.
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Ground Maintenance
When you are completely through with your gutter maintenance, remove any debris from your lawn along with any tools or other hardware that you used. It is extremely important to perform gutter maintenance on a regular basis to avoid future problems. The earlier that a clogged gutter or other problem is noticed, the lesser chance of having to spend a lot of money on expensive repairs. Take the time to prevent future problems - you will be glad that you did.
Contact Wendell's Roofing and Remodeling for your best solution.
------------------------ Most Common Problems - Gutters
Problem areas with your gutter system that can easily be overlooked. The evaluation of your gutters is best done when the gutters are being cleaned. This will enable you to see what is in the gutter, how it is attached to the fascia board and the condition of the edge of roof. Below are some common problems/repairs:
Normal Wear and Tear
After about 20-30 years aluminum and copper gutters begin to have pinholes. When it rains it appears that water drips from gutters that are seemingly in good condition. In fact both copper and aluminum oxidize and as a result tiny pinholes form resulting in dripping. Gutter replacement is the only solution.
Sagging Gutters
Older gutters often sag because years ago contractors used big spike nails to nail the gutter through the front and back of the gutter and into the facial board. Because the metal constantly expands and contracts, over time the gutters literally pull the spikes out weakening the whole gutter system (sadly some contractors still use those spikes as opposed to inside hidden gutter hangers which should be screwed into the facial board instead of nailed). Gutter replacement is necessary in most cases. On newer sagging gutters it is sometimes possible to install inside hidden hangers to reinforce and re-pitch them.
Storm Damage
Storm damage occurs when falling objects, such as branches during storms, crush gutters. During rain storms gutter spikes come out when gutters are clogged, filled and weighed down with water. Screws can also snap under the weight of ice, snow or water. This is easily spotted and corrective action should be taken as soon as possible, to avoid further damage.
Dented Down Spouts
Down spouts serve an important function of draining water collected by gutters away from the foundation and should be repaired in a timely manner. Usually just the dented or crushed section of down spout has to be replaced and is relatively inexpensive.
Standing Water in Gutters
Standing water in gutters can be the result of improperly installed gutters that don't pitch enough so that the water flows towards the down spout. It can also be the result of sagging gutters, which were nailed to the fascia board with gutter spikes, or hidden hangers were used but they were nailed in rather than screwed in. Re-pitching the gutters properly, and reinforcing them with inside hidden hangers and screws can fix this.
Clogs
Clogs prevent water from draining properly off of your rooftop. Protective gutter guards can be installed to prevent clogs from occurring. There are two types:
• Inexpensive metal or plastic screens keep the leaves out of the gutter, but may trap them on top of the screen.
• Solid gutter shields are more expensive but extend across most of the gutter width allowing water to roll into the gutter while leaves and foreign materials are pushed over the side.
Protective screens are also available to put inside the gutters to prevent debris from entering down spouts. This is a particularly good idea if your down spouts empty into drain lines, since it reduced the possibility that those lines will become stopped up.
Contact Wendell's Roofing and Remodeling for your best solution.
